Technical File

Historical Victorian Hair

Hair

In class I was surprised to hear about Victorian hair for I had always known from period dramas about the beauty accessorises such as roses or bows in the ladies hair to add a sense of style or class much like the Elizabethan Era with the pearls and jewels ladies still enjoyed accessorising their hair.

I was surprised however to learn about the extent of hair pieces Victorian ladies would wear. Extremely detailed pieces of hair woman would clip onto their own hair to create updo's and whatever took their fancy. Of course when I actually thought more into this revelation I realised how silly it was; Elizabethan woman would wear full wigs everyday for their desired looks. Modern day we were hair to volumise or whatever just like Victorian women. Hair was curled and pinned in a attractive fashion either in a up do or with a mixture; middle partings were also extremely common for women to have.

American Horror story inspired hair

Moira O'Hara

Needed-

Curling Iron
Section clips
parting comb
paddle brush
Pins

In my classes hair lesson a couple of weeks ago we had a really interesting/fun lesson based around Series one's maid in American Horror story; this lesson was just a bit of fun before decided what program to follow from the briefing of Claudia, Quentin or Mrs Laderman

I'm still not that technically advanced within my hair styling but this lesson was fun, The hair itself is something i would love to do on myself as its a hairstyle i've always like. The hair is curled in sections starting from a side parting and working down in a brick style pattern the front of the hair if curled towards the face. Always pin the hair after curling; Just mades the finish once cooled. the bottom of the hair once all curled is loosely folded towards the head in a roll.

The lesson itself was based around that hair style but also the idea of creating two other hair styles within the hair once all pins were out. the first style was simply what the hair was like once released and the other was done by literally shaking the mannequins head upside down and gently putting your hand through it, the result for that was a 70's Esq. Jessica Lange look with flicks in the hair. The photo is dreadful but the actual finish was such a juxtaposition to the original it was impressive to my little mind how much it could be change by taking pins out and shaking out.

Estella - Creating the character

The makeup for Estella was delicate and 'pretty' the colours I used were done to suit Kyomi's richer skin tone, a light orange and brown mix on the lids that works because its only a couple shades darker then her actual colouring, the face has been contoured but also highlighted to created a dewy look for my model. Lips are simply patted onto with a pinky rose colour that just adds more colouring to the naturally lip colouring. 

The face chart I decided to go with for Kyomi's Estella look 

Vivienne Westwood Inspired Look

Products needed

• Supra Colour Palette
• Black Eyeliner
• Sponge
• Small fine angled brush

This Vivienne Westwood look has been a favourite for a while In my last project with the Elizabethan ages I used it for a modern inspiration along side Disclosure. The look is fun full on but also not to complicated to achieve. For this look I used white foundation a little bit of mac lip mix and that was it, if I could re do the look I'd of used a thick eyeliner but overall its quite cool. The white base was applied gently with a sponge as I didn't want the foundation on Emma's face to blend with the white. 

Dark Eyes & Lips

Products needed for this look

Mac lipstick in Film Noir

Mac lip pencil in Vino

Mac Eyeshadow x 15 in Warm Neutral

For this look the base was already complete. Dark lips & Eyes was achieved much like how you'd do smokey eyes but using colouring that were orange and purple in shades. Starting with the lighter colouring on the eyes i then continued to blend and work the eyes with darker shading around the crease. Lips were film nor by mac a colour which is a favourite of mine, lined before lipstick was applied round the edges is mac lip pencil Vino. This look was inspired by the a smokey eyed look from François Nars book called "Makeup your mind express yourself" a must buy and really great for a range of looks and help

Recreating burns with different products

products used:

• Block Gelatine or Kryolan gel in a bottle
• Bowl with water in
• Spatula
• supra colour palette
• glycerin
• Translucent powder/set powder
• fake blood
• A fine brush to apply blood detailing with

Ew what a lovely piece I created. For the burn above I used the block gelatine to form the burn.

1. Place the block gelatine into pot and then heat in the microwave for around 10-15 seconds until melted.

2. Do not stir the jel at all or with get air bubbles in and harden before applied. You have to act quickly with this stuff as it drys within a couple of minutes. Making sure its not to hot before you applied to the models skin and work quickly with a spatula forming the shape of the burn.

3. Cool of the design once the shape is finished using the cool setting on a hair dryer.

4. Once the design is dry, set with some translucent powder

5. Colour the burn with the fine brush adding details like puss or blood to make the wound look sore, I added wound filler underneath some of the burn to look like the blood was actually underneath the burn through the skin.

Miss Havisham Creating the character - continuity

Miss Havisham; everyone has heard of her she's someone who displays extreme abuse to her body in the sheltered environment she had entrapped herself into. Doing makeup onto a extremely young person to convey these effects was always a little harder compared to someone who was over 40; for my planning of Miss Havisham i had always wanted my model/partner to look minimalistic yet convincing; to me Miss Havisham's makeup and hair would of been long since sweated of her face lets face it. The makeup I did for kyomi was planned out to suit her emphasising he yellow tones in her skin under her eyes to look sleep deprived. Lips were dry and pale as were her now aged brows. 

For the first practical as always I was a stressing but I felt like the overall final look was good especially with the use of the veil in which i had ripped and stained for it adding the prop made the overall photo more convincing even with my models septum and black top. Overall with assessment one I was quite happy the hair itself was a test in itself as I was applying a wig to Kyomi's hair. In the second assessment I believe the hair went a better as by that time I was confident in applying the wig to the head. I left the veil in my room which was a huge mistake as obviously for continuity thats not something any professional would do. I had prepared myself mentally having analysed my first assessment and also printed off a couple for the actual day in case I needed further direction. The biggest risk I decided to do in the look was of course the lips that were coloured and covered with eyelash glue to look dry and chapped in the second part of the assessment i was actually surprised in how similar it was in that area. Looking at the photos I have also noticed the first looks more yellowy in its colouring I believe this is due to the lighting being brighter in the second whilst shooting. In the second photo the black blur on the shoulder is my attempt at editing a tattoo out; in time though i will learn to perfect if things like that occur. 

Practice look for Miss Havisham - Makeup & Hair

In class I did this practice of Miss Havisham, I remember this day being the first attempt I'd put a wig on as I have used a wig in my work for sky's hair. The wig has been placed at the back. All the hair was curled using small tongs. 

The makeup was just practicing creating ageing and also paling down Kyomi's face a couple of shades to create Miss Havishams deprived look.

Out of Class 

This experiment was a lot of fun, I starting looking into how to create a peeled skin like effect on myself. I think the look to someones eyes is dramatic but when you realise how much the character of Miss Havisham actually took on as a tole to her body was dramatic, even though it spanned over twenty years. I think I look quite terrifying 

I look at padding the face out slightly due to the ageing process usually meaning that the lips became slightly thinner. I also thought about the fact that this lady had spend the past twenty years doing not much, maybe her face would plump up? not only from age but from her lack of activeness. 

Scaring using moulds & applying

products used

Moulded gelatine scars (were already prepared)
Prosaide (Contact glue)
Pro-clean (to remove)
Witch Hazel
wound filler
supra colour
fake blood
cotton buds

This lesson was all applying the applying process of the scar, making a realistic wound.

1. Put the prosaide on to a cotton bud and place on the bottom side of the moulded scar and also onto the part of skin where the mould will be placed

2. Wait for the prosaide to become tacky then place the mould onto the skin pressing hard to ensure the mould is completely secure.

3. With the witch hazel on a cotton bud start to work around the mould rubbing along the edges of the mould so it into the skin to look realistic

4. Apply the wound filler into the centre of the wound to create a blood like effect, you can also use fake blood and supra colour.

5. Create a outside damaged skin effect using red supra colour and shadow; can also use a bruise wheel but I used eyeshadows.

Here is a little from my other blog on the work

For this wound the shape itself was made before the lesson by my tutor, this lesson was focusing on how to apply and blend the latex edging in the skin. Straight away without being to hard on myself I can see and learn what I did wrong, anyone noticed? well if not Its obvious I haven't cut the latex enough round the edges so the finished look in a little edging especially with the blood emphasising the mistake. Even though that didn't work the best this lesson was great; finding out about wounds and how to apply them correctly is a big learning curve. Also how freely and creatively we can create this wounds to be bloody messes with puss to a older wound with scabby dried blood and a bruised outline. I am so tempted to buy myself some to practice over the summer with. 

The creating of Miss Havisham Face charts & Hair design

For the character of Miss Havisham we were asked to create three different and possible designs for possible character looks.

The original facial chart I did for my Miss Havisham ideas, this was before we had been partnered up and was simply just a initial testing for how I could create Miss Havisham's character within my own creative mind. I looked at the story of Miss Havisham and how she was deprived from her 20 years of solitude. Dark circles under her eyes from sleepless nights. I also filled in the brows to be rather unkept as of course they would of been, even for woman of that age I wanted to create quite a dramatic look. The lips are dark and dry, of course though she wouldn't be wearing purple lipstick so this was something that wasn't realistic.

This design for me was all about creating the look of a deprived face, I wanted to create a sleep deprived and a gaunt Miss Havisham. Not only would she be lacking a lot of necessities within her body but she would also be dirty and ill. The look is dramatic and on a scale of looks that could be believable but maybe it was too much. In the end I decided after creating a third face chart that no this would not be the design I'd create for Ky. (Left)


The third and final face design, the camera hasn't picked up the detailing the best but I decided to use this design due to wanting to create a actual believable Miss Havisham. Ky's skin tonne is slightly deeper and caramel but with more yellow tonnes in. I wanted there to be a almost Make-up? what makeup look. Eyebrows would be natural but brushed. The face would be shaded to create a slight gaunt deprived look. The underneath eye colouring was important because I wanted to increase the yellow in Ky's skin, the look of a women who had become unhinged and hadn't sleep properly in a while. The foundation base would be slightly lighter then her natural skin but just to pale it down slightly to reflect the fact Miss Havisham's character hasn't been outside for twenty years since being glitched on her wedding day. I wanted to also create extremely dry lips so a mixture of eyelash glue and pale shadows would be patted upon the lips. I also looked at the idea of gluing hair to her face like many older women getting stray hairs I thought this would be fun and also look really cool. (Right) 

The hair design needed to be planned out quite a lot in my head and within notes, having Kyomi as my partner I had always wanted to use her wig to add length to the design. Having naturally very curly hair though this was something I'd never yet styled being a complete hair stylist newbee since going to Solent to do my course. I wanted the hair to be in a bun; yes it was simple and it wouldn't be perfect but that was what I wanted. Just think Miss Havisham hasn't washed her hair and slept on it for twenty years. It would look more like a birds nest then anything. In fitting with the Victorian theme though I tried to get the design in fitting with the brief. Having a long side fringe I decided that should be curled and parted in the middle this was also better as Ky has a shaved segment within the front of hair. For props I brought a long veil from eBay which I would tea/coffee stain and rip in places and put two little rose buds after the fringe sectioning this was also a good idea to help blend the wig into the front section of hair more believably. 

Rashes, pale parlour, Dry skin and dirty hands

Products needed

Duo glue
Coloured hairspray for the hands, can use Kryolan hairspray
tear stick for watery eyes
vaseline
translucent powder
sponges
water spray

can also use :

Tooth enamel
Brill cream for a greasy hair effect
Glycerine for sweat
dry shampoo - to age the hair and also create dandruff


Rashes

• Use the supra colour palette and simply flick dark or light red on the models skin;  as the model to shut her eyes.
• Powder the skin afterwards to create the look that the rash is coming for underneath the skin.
• Freckles can also be created using the same process though created using a range of brown shades.

Pale Parlour

• start by paling down the skin, the foundation being used shouldn't be white as that is unrealistic but a shade a couple of shades lighter then the models natural skin tone.
• Pat some duo onto the lips and also onto the hands. allow to dry naturally do not touch
• For the eyes to create a tired effect use sepia brown or a blue shade around the eyes, think of eye bags and the shades they are, for a extremely tired look red eye drops can also be added
• Rub away the duo on lips and hands gently as it will create a peeling effect.

Dirty Hands

• Moisturise the hands generously 
• Ask the model to bend the knuckles to ensure you can apply the products over the hands
• Use different shades of brown to create a realistic look, can be created with shadows but also coloured hairspray
• rub the products into the hands and set with powder
• to create a more realistic look to blend the products in more with water by having a spray and apply onto the hands 

Theatrical Ageing

With aging for makeup you can create the looks using either latex or shadow, in the images below I'm simply using shadow and a bit of concealer to get the desired look.



Products Used - lesson taught

• Stipple sponges - orange and black
• old age stipple 
• barrier cream 
• grease based paint
• fixing spray
• kryolan tooth enamel 
• spatula 
• brushes that can be used for the latex as it ruins brushes faster

• Can also have Kryolan tooth enamel is ageing teeth as well 

For Latex

1. Start off with the barrier cream on the part of skin that will be aged, this creates a base to the makeup

2. Shake latex well before using.Pour a little amount into a bowl.

3. Stipple the latex on the skin in a thin layer

4. Stretch the skin so when released natural wrinkles form and set with the latex

5. break up the edges of the latex and blend/feather to create a realistic look

6. Use the hair dryer on a cool setting, as a heated temperature wouldn't set

7. repeat this process in layers making sure that the layer is dry before doing another layer.

Shadow

2. Next its time to analyse your models face, ask them to smile and frown so you can see where to apply the makeup as these are the wrinkles that will appear naturally over time

3. Decide the colouring in which to use for your model; of course this will depend of your models skin tone. Use a small thin brush to apply the product, I would use a angled brush.

4. Follow the natural wrinkles of the face using your product, I also did a base yellowy colour for my model and blended before I put the darker and prominent wrinkles on.

5. To age the eyebrows you can use grease paint or supra color in either white or grey

You can also age the teeth by using the kryolan tooth enamel, simply rub the teeth dry with your model keeping her mouth open then apply the product. 

Cuts, Scratches & Bruising for the perfect black eye

Products needed for this lesson

• wax
• Latex
• Collidion
• Bruise Palette
• Wound filler
• fake blood
• selaer
• Pus
• Duo glue
• Old age stipple
• Fixing spray
• Barrier cream
• Vaseline 
• Cotton buds
• sponges
• mixing palette

                                                        Cuts

1. Start of protecting the clothing of your model due to latex being able to stain/damage clothing

2. Mould the wax onto the back of the hand to soften the product with the heat of your hand; only a small amount is needed. Don't use to much.

3. Apply the wax to the desired area, making sure you blend the edges of the wax into the skin to look more realistic; keep some height into the middle of the creation so its easier to work with when adding details.

4. Cover the wound now with latex making sure the edges like the wax underneath are blended well around the edges. If the edges are obvious on the skin it will ruin the effect.

5. Dry the latex with a cool setting on the hair dryer, gently dry your work

6. Use a spatula now to cut the raised middle section of your work; you are now creating the cut.

7. To look realistic fill the wound with wound filler and fake blood, you can also add pus to create a infected look.

8. To create a damaged skin look you can use the bruise wheel to make the skin surrounding the skin look damaged.

Bruising 

1. Start of deciding what age you want your bruise to look like; due to different stages of healing the bruised skin can range in colours. 

2.After the colouring/inspiration has been decided start using the bruise colour wheel; remember the colours on the wheel are extremely pigmented so applying the colouring onto the face should be gentle, a sponge or small stippling bruise is great for this.

3. Build up the colours, working with layers and blending.

4. Vaseline can be added if your making your bruise look new and sore.

ouch

Old Scars

1. Rub barrier cream onto the area of skin the scar will be on

2.Paint the area with collodion but be extremely cautious if working near mouth or eyes as its very strong and could cause damage

3. Blend the skin in the direction of the scar, holding down to dry and set the scaring, like the cuts use the cool setting on a hair dryer and use gently to set.

4. Build up the layers on the scar to make more prominent; so redo these steps to get the best finishing.

5. For old scars you can add some colours to look more suitable and realistic as they will look different to new scars.